The art of tailoring in Japan has undergone a remarkable evolution since the 1860s, coinciding with Japan’s Meiji Restoration and its opening to Western influence. W. David Marx, author of Ametora: How Japan Saved American Style, sheds light on this transformative period: “In 1860, when Western governments started showing up in Japan, everyone there wore robes. Japan began learning to both dress and make Western clothing as part of a civilisation project, marking a significant shift from traditional to Western clothing.”

Initially, adopting Western styles symbolised modernity and power, especially after the Meiji Restoration when the emperor adopted Western military attire, elevating suits as symbols of authority and advancement. By the early 20th century, heavily influenced by British fashion, Japan developed a robust local tailoring scene. Marx notes, “By the early 20th century, you had a strong local tailoring culture, but it was very much looking at England as the base.” This influence extended to the terminology, with the word for suit at the time being “Sebiro,” thought to possibly be derived from Savile Row.

The post-war period introduced another pivotal shift with the adoption of American Ivy League style, which significantly influenced Japanese youth culture. Marx explains, “During the late 20th century, Japan embraced the American Ivy style, which was perceived not just as a fashion statement but as a symbol of academic success and youthful rebellion against older, more conservative sartorial norms.”

Over time, Japanese tailors began to incorporate softer, more relaxed Italian tailoring techniques, merging these with their renowned craftsmanship. This evolution was not just about style adoption but a profound adaptation that positioned Japanese tailoring on the global stage. Marx explains, “This blend of craftsmanship and innovation helped Japanese tailoring gain a distinguished reputation globally.”

In contemporary Japan, tailoring is not only about tradition but also about innovation and a relaxed approach to style that resonates with modern street style. Marx observes, “Japanese street style, particularly in places like Shibuya, shows an incredible level of style and individuality. It’s casual yet highly intentional, reflecting a broader trend of relaxed tailoring that has influenced global fashion trends.”

Today, despite global shifts away from traditional suits, Japanese tailoring remains vibrant. Young Japanese tailors continue to innovate, blending deep respect for their sartorial heritage with modern trends. Reflecting a broader cultural ethos, many young Japanese artisans prioritise mastering their craft over the ambition to build large corporations. Marx highlights, “There’s a reverence for tailoring in Japan, seen in the tradition of wealthy men preferring bespoke suits, a practice that has influenced even the younger generation.”

Japanese tailoring’s evolution from a symbol of Westernisation to a celebrated craft underscores a unique journey. It reflects Japan’s ability to adapt and excel in global practices while infusing distinctly local flavours, setting its tailoring scene apart as both a guardian of tradition and a beacon of innovation and style.

Marx adds, “The relaxed approach to modern street style in Japan has not only reshaped local fashion but has also set trends that permeate global fashion circles. This has been pivotal in maintaining Japan’s influence on the world stage.” This commitment to evolving sartorial standards ensures that Japanese tailoring remains a vital and influential force in the global fashion industry.